CLICK ON ANY PHOTO FOR A LARGER VIEW.

It is increasingly common for folks to train their small dog to use a litter box.   Several companies sell products -- from simple plastic boxes, to sophisticated machines with waste hoses and electric pumps (these sophisticated potty machines typically run around $600 to $800). 

This solution is a bit different -- a bit more "custom" -- yet it uses all standard off-the-shelf parts available at your local hardware or plumbing supply!   In parts, it will run around $500, but the installation/plumbing costs can be significant (especially if you're not doing it yourself) so plan carefully before proceeding.

In the end, you'll end up with an aesthetically pleasing litter box as pictured, left.

How Do I Start?  What do I Need?

First, you'll need to understand this is a significant project.   It requires planning for space, a budget, and most of all, a licensed qualified plumber to do the installation.   While this page attempts to share a working solution with as much detail as possible, you must understand that things like plumbing are VERY specific to the house, region, and local building codes. For example, the water supply lines we used were PEX -- some houses use entirely different materials. Therefore, all the connectors and tubing for your installation may be completely different.  PLEASE NOTE:  YOU ARE ENTIRELY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN CONTRACTING, MATERIALS, AND RESULTS.
 

For convenience, we've added a summary of parts and installation steps.  However, we strongly recommend you read the following page and photos for additional information.

The Main Component

The main component of this solution is an off-the-shelf one-piece shower unit.  The one we used (pictured left) is the Aquaglass 313232A, with about a 32 inch by 32 inch base.   The entire box and space required for our box installation was 34 inches by 34 inches.   There is a wide-variety of shower sizes and products to choose from (and pricing).  A typical solid unit will run around $200-$300. 

It's also possible to purchase a shower "base" and build separate sides -- but we found a solid unit cut down to size works best and was cheaper than buying separate components.  Plus, using a solid unit leaves no seams and provides one piece which is easier to handle and install.   We measured and marked carefully, and used a simple hand-held jigsaw to cut the top portion of the shower unit off.

To make it easier, we first did a "rough cut" above the line to get the bulk (and weight) off, and did a second "fine" cut to get down to the 14" height.

Measure, check, and double-check!

We cut our shower unit down to slightly  over 14 inches high -- to be even with the tub.  Depending on your installation and location, you may make yours higher or lower. 

It's also a good idea first survey the work area.  We suggest you cut small holes first -- to check for the location and type of plumbing lines, studs and other items that may cause problems or issues with your installation.  Remember, it's not uncommon to have to do a lot of patching and painting after a project of this scope!   A careful survey and planning before the major construction can save you a lot of trouble and cost.

The Plumbing

The actual plumbing is the most difficult part of this project.   It's a process of getting access into walls to install fixtures -- and underneath the floor to run water supply lines and the drain line.  Your plumber will have to account for spacing, mounting, a trap, drain lines, angles, and fixtures.

For your shower and valve hardware, you may use whatever brand you like.   Typically, you'll need one bath/shower kit (consisting of a shower head and neck, bath valve/knob/cover, and water spout).  

NOTE:  You won't need the water spout -- just cap that line.  

You'll also need to get a shower massage sprayer/nozzle with hose.  Here is what we used:

• A standard shower/tub valve kit (shower head and valve).
• One shower massage spray/nozzle with hose.

Tub and shower hardware can vary greatly in price (depending on metals, style and brand), but $40 to $70 is typical for a tub/shower kit, and $25 to $50 dollars is average for a shower massage spray/nozzle and hose assembly.

In our case we used standard PEX lines and connectors, as well as standard PVC traps and drain lines.    We brought the cold and hot water supply lines over from the tub (small white tubes in picture left, above) and connected to the existing drain for the tub shower (large white pipe in the left picture).  Here is what we used:

• Two PEX  1/2" T connector to hot and cold water supply.
• Two 15 foot PEX 1/2" water supply line to wall for shower valve (hot and cold lines).
• Two PEX 1/2" to 3/4" IPT connectors to connect the water supply line to the shower valve.
• One 1/2" PEX cap to block the water spout line.
• Bag of 1/2" PEX rings.

These parts will generally run about $25 to $35. 

The shower head and water valve will need to be placed on the wall at the height you prefer.   You may consider options such as attaching a piece of Plexiglas behind the nozzle and valve to protect the wall from water.   To run the line up from the valve into the shower head, you'll need a few more parts.   Here is what we used:

• One 4 foot PEX 1/2" water supply line.
• One 1/2" PEX to IPT inline connector.
• One 1/2" PEX to 3/4" shower fitting.

These parts will generally run about $10 to $15.

The drain hole will need to be carefully measured and cut into the floor.   A PVC drain section with a drain cover will be attached to the bottom of the shower unit and sealed with "plumber's putty".   Take care to place and level the shower base exactly.     A trap must be attached underneath the drain to prevent gases from coming up through the plumbing.    The drain line should then be extended to the appropriate point and connected with a "T" section into the existing drain line.  Here is what we used:

• One PVC 4" shower drain fitting assembly. with drain cover.
• One PVC trap ("gooseneck").
• One 10 foot section of PVC drain line (2" in diameter).
• One 2" PVC street " Y" (connection to existing drain line.)

These parts will generally run about $35 to $40

Note the angle of the drain line from the trap to the "T" into the existing drain is important.  Also take great care in appropriately cleaning, preparing (prime), connecting and sealing all joints and connections.   Be SURE to test your plumbing for leaks thoroughly before sealing up the wall!   In all, plan for $100 to $200 in various tubing, straps, traps, lines, glues. PVC primer, rings and connectors.

Trim the Box

Trimming the box well is important to make it look nice and be functional.   In particular, you may want to have a large ledge (with 1" overhang over the shower edge) to place items on, hang a flush hose underneath (see the enhancements later on this page), or add front trim to block overspray, and make for for easier wiping.

For trim materials, we used exterior PVC board.  It looks like wood, but it is composed of the same type of plastic used in plumbing drain lines. The reason for using the PVC material  is to make the trim impervious to water and urine.   PVC board is much more expensive than other trim materials (i.e. painted wood) but is well worth it for the durability and ease of installation (no painting).

Around the edge on the wall,  we attached small 1x2 boards and small upright posts to the floor in order to support and attach the trim surfaces.   The PVC board was then cut and fit to line and cover the box.

You'll probably need two or three large 1x6 pieces of PVC board, and one or two pieces of smaller PVC trim.   Here is what we used:

• Two 8 foot 1" x 6" PVC boards.
• One 6 foot 1" x 2" PVC trim section.
• One tube of construction adhesive.
• One tube of white tub/bathroom caulk.
• One bag of small screws.

Large 8 foot sections of 1x6 PVC board run $25 to $30, and the smaller trim pieces typically run $5 to $10.  

Note we placed a backsplash (a piece of PVC trim cut to length) along the edge on the back and side walls, and left about a one inch overhang along the top into the shower.   We chose a "straight and angled" look, but you can have it trimmed in whatever style or design you like.    We attached our pieces primarily with construction adhesive, but also used screws in a couple of key places.     All the edges and joints where caulked.

Such construction makes a lot of mess, so be prepared for the debris and dust.   Also realize it will require a significant amount of drywall patching and painting.    You need to make sure that is included in your estimate, or have the materials and paint on hand to do-it-yourself.

For example, we also extended the alcove wall out a few inches to hide the whole box area when walking by or coming into the bathroom.   This wall construction required additional drywall and 2x4 boards.  In addition to the side wall, there was significant patching, drywall, sanding and painting of the back wall with the valve, and underneath in the ceiling where most of the plumbing work was done.

Enhancements

As with most projects, there are always improvements, enhancements and options!   We chose to improvement our ultimate dog litter box in a couple of ways by adding:

• A tankless flusher.
• A front splash guard and doorway.

In addition to the standard shower spray nozzle, we added a standard Sloan Flushometer, as used in many public restrooms.   This provides a one handle "flush" of water down the sides of the shower base/litter box.   Here's what we used:

• One Sloan Model 186 Royal Flushometer (urinal model with 3/4" spud).
• One 10 foot section of 1/2 inch PEX water supply line (to move the shower head, valve, and supply lines further up the wall).
• One PEX 1/2" T connector.
• One PEX 1/2" to 3/4" IPT connector.
• One 3/4" to 1" elbow.
• One 1" galvanized threaded pipe (3" length).
• One 1" galvanized threaded pipe (2" length).
• One 1" to 3/4" PEX connector.
• One 3/4" PEX T connector
• One 5' length of 3/4" PEX tubing.
• Two 3/4" PEX caps and rings.
• One roll of metal strapping.
• One PVC board for trim.
• One roll of plumber's Teflon tape.
• One bag of short screws.

The Flushometer (tankless flush) is available at any commercial plumbing supply.   Generally, these will run around $50 to $80.  The PEX tubing, connectors, pipes, rings, etc. will run around $40 to $50.   The additional PVC trim will run around $20.

A PEX "T" is placed in the cold water feed line under the shower valve.   This goes to the connectors and pipes which connect to the water input line of the Flushometer (the spud on the back wall).   Strap or attach the connectors and pipes going into the Flushometer to attach it firmly.  

We also cut off the extended portion of pipe at the bottom of the Flushometer so it was seated lower.   (See photos left).

Drill a hole on the ledge of the trim and connect the pipes and connectors to the PEX "T" under the ledge.    From each side of this "T", run a short length of 3/4" PEX tubing around the edge to the front of the box.   Cap the ends of the tube.    Drill holes in the tube for the water to flush against the sides of the box.   We put a hole about every three to four inches.      Attach the tubing to the underside of the trim.   Simply run screws through the drain holes into the trim above to attach the tubing to the ledge/trim.

IMPORTANT:  When you connect the Flushometer, do not use any plumber's grease or putty!  (If you must, use Teflon tape rather than putty).   A single bit of putty will damage the diaphragm.   Also, use the flow control screw to turn down the water input before initially testing water through the Flushometer.   Slowly turn up the water flow to adjust flow and pressure.   A sudden blast of full pressure water to a dry unit can rupture/damage the components.

Finally, we added a front "splash guard" and doorway.   Note a small ledge extends all the way across the front to hold in overspray (water or urine).

Converting and Training the Dogs

There are some important considerations for the dogs when installing this type of system.   

First, be sure to have a consistent place for your dogs to use their existing litter box during the construction.   Don't get left without a place for them to go during or in between construction days!

Once complete, understand your dogs will not understand what this new litter box is, and they will probably be confused by it. 

If you use pads, continue to put the same pad in the box, to help them identify the new box and spot.    Work with them closely, and monitor them constantly, almost as if "training from scratch".    In our case, the dogs were using the new litter box consistently within a few days.  

The difference is amazing!   Most of the pee simply drains away, and it's so nice to simply spray/flush the unit easily.   No more litter, and no more down on hands and knees wiping up urine with paper towels!

This truly is the "Ultimate Dog Litter Box"!

THE ULTIMATE DOG LITTER BOX:   a shower base, with drain and spray nozzle

big enough for small and medium size dogs to use!

start with a standard one-piece fiberglass shower unit.

 our unit was cut down to around 14 inches high -- roughly the same height as the edge of the tub.

some of OUR INSTALLATION WENT FROM UNDERNEATH ON THE first FLOOR  ceiling TO ACCESS THE PLUMBING.  here you can see the water supply lines (small white lines) and the main drain line (large white pipe).

a standard shower valve kit and massage spray nozzle assembly.

be sure to carefully place and measure where your drain hole will be.   careful checking before hand for studs and joists will save you time and money!

test your plumbing carefully before sealing up the walls and floors!

TRIM THE BOX AS NEEDED.

plan for lots of drywall and painting.   for example, we extended a wall slightly to provide a better appearance.

A STANDARD SLOAN FLUSHOMETER.   This is known as a "tankless flusher".

 DRILLING A PIECE OF PVC PIPE FOR THE FLUSH DRAIN LINE.

THE PVC PIPE (DRAIN LINE) MOUNTED UNDERNEATH THE TOP EDGE.

THE TOP EDGE OF THE BOX TRIMMED OUT TO HIDE THE PIPE.   A FRONT SPLASH GUARD ADDED WITH A SMALL DOORWAY FOR DOG ACCESS.

THE INSIDE LEDGE OF THE THE FRONT SPLASH GUARD EXTENDS ALL THE WAY ACROSS TO PREVENT LEAKING.